The golliwog was created by American-born English writer Florence Kate Upton and featured in a much-read series of children’s books, the first of which, The Adventures of Two Dutch Dolls and a Golliwog, was published in 1895. The ugly yet friendly character was described in the book as a “horrid sight, the blackest gnome,” and based on an American blackface minstrel doll Upton played with as a child. Subsequently, the golliwog was popularized as a children’s doll in the United States and the United Kingdom. By the mid-1900s the golliwog had become a symbol of racist and anti-Black stereotyping. Patrick Kelly’s vast collection of racist memorabilia included various representations of the golliwog, and he created his own version of the image as the logo for his brand, Patrick Kelly Paris. For his Spring/Summer 1986 collection, Kelly featured custom-printed fabrics by Bianchini-Férier, the luxury textile manufacturer, with the logo. It was also used on his brand’s shopping bags. American stores considered the image too controversial, so the bags were not distributed in the United States.