Tamara de Lempicka was the embodiment of the modern woman and a revolutionary painter — she was also a survivor. She had to pack up her life and flee twice in her lifetime, first to France during the Russian Revolution and then to America before the start of World War II. But it was these experiences that shaped the woman she would become: bold, independent, and a true original. Here are 5 things to know about this innovative artist and Hollywood favorite.

1. She helped define the Art Deco movement

Tamara de Lempicka started her art career studying under French Cubist painter André Lhote, but she quickly surpassed her teacher. By 1922, she had already developed her own style. The term “Art Deco” comes from 1925’s International Exposition of Decorative and Industrial Arts in Paris, which caused a revolution in furniture, fashion, illustration, and architecture across the United States and Europe. Lempicka’s work embodied this new style — characterized by bold lines and geometric, angular shapes. However, while she created memorable magazine covers for Die Dame, she always identified as a painter, not a decorative artist.

2. She signed her first paintings with a male surname

When she first came on the art scene in Paris in the early 1920s, Lempicka signed her paintings Lempitzky, the male version of her last name. This was, in part, to be taken seriously in a male-dominated field — some critics praised her nudes and still lifes, thinking they had been created by a man, “Monsieur” Lempitzky. However, it was also a reflection of her self-identity. Lempicka was bisexual, and her signature reflected her fluid identity. This fluidity can also be seen in her paintings. While male painters focused on women as objects, Lempicka’s women had agency and power. In the In the Leaning Nude I, 1925, the subject isn’t on display for the male gaze, but is absorbed in her own pleasure. Lempicka’s portraits of men display a similar sexuality and androgeny.

3. She was a model of the “modern woman”

In the 1920s, women experienced a greater degree of societal access and economic freedom. Hair was shorter, dresses were looser, and women could control their own money. In 1929, Vogue announced the arrival of the modern woman: “She seeks purity in line, in contour, hair, and clothes. She knows that, in the drama of her own personality, she must be stage director, scene-shifter, mistress of costumes, as well as star of the play.” Lempicka exemplified this “modern woman” in both her persona and art. Encouraged from a young age by her grandmother telling her she was exceptional and could do whatever she wanted, that’s exactly what she did. She was strong and independent, even acting as her own manager and negotiating prices for her work. She gave this same power to the women in her portraits, painting larger-than-life figures standing tall against towering skyscrapers.

4. She used family and friends as her subjects

In part because she had less access as a woman in the art world, and in part because they were easily available subjects, Lempicka often painted her friends and family, particularly early in her career. An early favorite was her daughter, Kizette. She also often painted her romantic partners, both lovers and husbands. She painted her first husband, Tadeusz Łempicki, just before their divorce. In the portrait, his left hand, where a wedding ring would be, appears unfinished. This was another turning point in Lempicka’s life. While Tadeusz wanted to return to a more conservative lifestyle, she was enjoying the newfound freedom Paris and the art world had opened up for her, and nothing was going to stop her.

5. She’s a favorite of Hollywood to this day

While Lempicka had some early success, she was often overlooked by critics and art historians. But she was always appreciated by artists and creatives. Lempicka’s cool, glossy style was a perfect match for Hollywood’s glitz and glamour. Early on, she was collected by artists, actresses, movie directors, fashion designers, and others in the arts. When her artwork was rediscovered in the 1970s, Hollywood stars, including Barbra Streisand and Jack Nicholson, were among her biggest collectors. Her work continues to influence pop culture into the present day, from Madonna’s Open Your Heart (1986) and Vogue (1990) videos to the Giorgio Armani Privé Fall/Winter 2022–2023 Collection.

Text adapted from research by Furio Rinaldi, curator in charge, Achenbach Foundation for Graphic Arts, Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco, and Gioia Mori, professor of contemporary art history, Accademia di Belle Arti.