The indigenous population of Hokkaido, northern-most of Japan's main islands, call themselves Ainu, meaning simply "people" or "humans." Physically and linguistically distinct from the ethnic Japanese, their history remains elusive. The earliest known Ainu woven garments are for the most part relatively plain, decorated with only minimal applique and embroidery. From the mid-nineteenth century, as a result of growing contact and trade with the ethnic Japanese, the Ainu began employing imported indigo-dyed cotton cloth for their appliques, which became increasingly larger and more elaborate. Ainu women began to create new abstract graphic designs for the embellishing robes, such as tis example. The passion to produce these bold designs was inspired by the belief held by the Ainu that each pattern should differ from the one preceding it.