The Indigenous population of Hokkaido, the northernmost of Japan’s main islands, call themselves Ainu, meaning simply “people” or “humans.” Physically and linguistically distinct from the mainland Japanese, the Ainu share genetic relation to Amerindians, Tibetans, and the peoples of Okinawa. Ainu woven garments evolved over the course of the nineteenth century from relatively plain cloths with only minimal appliqué and embroidery. By the mid-century, as a result of increased contact and trade with the ethnic Japanese, Ainu women began employing imported cotton cloth for their appliqués, which became more elaborate. As Ainu scholar Chisato Dubreuil explains, Ainu garments express personal pride for the female maker. “Design innovation was highly prized; it differentiated a woman’s skill but most importantly the women artists had to create a unique design never produced before” (Dubreuil 2016).

Although it became common for Ainu makers to incorporate printed cottons into their designs, this robe has the somewhat peculiar inclusion of propaganda textiles. Appliquéd into the sleeves are printed cottons with explicit war motifs: zeppelins, battleships, and the globe, thus dating the robe to the World War II period. During this time, kimono fabrics served as popular vehicles for Imperial Japanese nationalist imagery, even on garments worn by young children and on swaddling for infants. It is unknown whether the Ainu maker was aware of the political statement or simply incorporated rare imported fabric into the traditional design. jkd